A weekend in East Devon: two slow days from a Gothic chapel
Plan a relaxed two-night weekend in East Devon: Honiton's market, the Jurassic Coast, Ottery St Mary and country pubs, all from a restored chapel in Feniton.
East Devon is made for short breaks. In one weekend you can browse a Georgian market town, walk red cliffs that are 250 million years old and still be back by the log burner before dark. Here is how we would spend two nights, starting from The Old Chapel in Feniton.
Getting here
Feniton sits just off the A30, about 4 miles west of Honiton and 3 miles north of Ottery St Mary. If you’d rather leave the car at home, Feniton has its own railway station on the line between London Waterloo and Exeter. The journey from London takes just over three hours, and Exeter is about 20 minutes away. Only the front three coaches stop at Feniton’s short platform, so sit near the front.
Friday evening: settle in
Arrive from 3pm, park right outside and let the weekend start slowly. Light the log burner, open a bottle and watch the light fade through the lantern roof above the dining table. If you’ve had a long drive, the freestanding bath is waiting.
Saturday morning: Honiton
Honiton is about 15 minutes away and worth a proper morning. Its long Georgian High Street has held a market since the town’s royal charter in 1257, and stalls still line it every Tuesday and Saturday. The town is also known across the South West for its antique shops and antiques centres.
For something quieter, Allhallows Museum on the High Street holds a celebrated collection of Honiton lace, the craft that made the town famous. It usually opens from spring to autumn, so check before you go.
Saturday afternoon: the Jurassic Coast
Drive south to the sea. Sidmouth is about 25 minutes away, with a Regency seafront, red cliffs and the Connaught Gardens above the beach. If you prefer somewhere smaller, head for Branscombe, a village strung along a green valley that runs down to a pebble beach. The National Trust looks after its Old Bakery, Manor Mill and a thatched forge that still works today.
This stretch of shore is part of the Jurassic Coast, England’s first natural World Heritage Site. We’ve written a full guide to the best beaches nearby.
Saturday evening: a country pub
East Devon is rich in village pubs with open fires and local ales. Many of them pour beer from Otter Brewery, which is brewed in the Blackdown Hills near Honiton. Book ahead on Saturdays, especially in summer.
Sunday: Ottery St Mary and the River Otter
Ottery St Mary is only 10 minutes away. Its great parish church, St Mary’s, is often compared to a small cathedral, and the poet Samuel Taylor Coleridge was born in the town in 1772. Afterwards, follow the River Otter on foot through meadows and woodland, then stop for a long Sunday lunch before heading home.
If the weather turns, the National Trust’s Killerton estate is about 25 minutes west, with a house, garden, parkland and a café.
A weekend in November?
Every year on 5 November, Ottery St Mary holds its Tar Barrels night, when locals run through the streets carrying flaming tar barrels on their shoulders. It is one of England’s oldest surviving folk customs and draws thousands of visitors. Arrive early and leave young children and dogs at home: the streets get very crowded.
Good to know
How far is Feniton from the coast? Sidmouth is about 25 minutes by car, and Branscombe and Budleigh Salterton about half an hour.
Can I visit East Devon without a car? Yes. Feniton station is on the London Waterloo to Exeter line, and Honiton is one stop away. A car makes the coast easier, though.
When is the best time for a short break in East Devon? Spring and autumn are quieter and cheaper than summer, and the coast is still beautiful. Winter weekends are perfect for walks followed by a fire.
Stay at The Old Chapel
The Old Chapel is a restored Gothic chapel in Feniton with two bedrooms, room for four and a private garden. Dogs are welcome too. Book direct and save 10% on our Airbnb prices.
